Oil leak
#1
Had a run into work this morning and noticed a few drips of oil on the forecourt after stopping for fuel but carried on for another 40 odd miles to work.  Reminded me of when my output shaft bearing went and took the seal with it but I reassured myself that that leak was a lot worse.  Always had the odd misting of oil in this area and the odd drip since putting things back together but its got a lot worse although oil level is still good on the dip stick I think it looks worse than it is.  I think it could be one of the gaskets on the covers or maybe the starter motor seal as I never replaced it?  I am due an oil change and will probably pull the rotor cover to inspect the chain tensions soon so will renew that gasket and use copper washers on the bolts this time.  I don't think its the output shaft seal as my chain and sprocket are bone dry and overdue a spraying of the wurfe dry chain lube. 

Another issue is I am finding it hard to get into neutral but think thats just my clutch cable needing adjusting.  I could do with a new one of those too.

[Image: 3-C40032-A-4770-43-BA-AFB9-588-FA0-DBC07-F.jpg]
[Image: 06766442-DC00-47-F8-BAAA-D36-B302-CA8-C0.jpg]
[Image: EA33-C514-885-F-4-F83-928-C-0-C3164-F4-A0-A1.jpg]
Reply
#2
I had a similar problem a few months ago, and after replacing the alternator gasket and gear change oil seal to no effect, I worked out that it was the starter motor O ring. Part no 09280-35005 @ £10.18. Robbing gits!
Of course, it means tanks and carbs off to get access which is a pain in the bum.
If you check just above the f/sprocket you`ll see the s/motor drain hole.
Reply
#3
Cheers bob I am going to clean everything up tomorrow and have a proper look but it makes sense it being the starter motor oring as that is above the area and I just put the starter motor back in using the old oring.
Reply
#4
Yep plenty of oil on the body of the starter motor near the oring.

[Image: 5232-A6-DE-1465-495-D-BF52-DD68854939-D7.jpg]
Reply
#5
Finally got around to this job as the oil leak got worse, bit of a pain to have to take the tanks off but didn't have to remove the carbs.  The old oring looked thinner than the new one and there was much more resistance when slotting the starter back in place with the the new one as it just slipped out before.  Also changed the oil and filter.

[Image: 5-FC90-B8-D-1621-4-CB0-9-BC2-DAFEF008-D601.jpg]
[Image: A086-C488-1-D0-C-461-B-A642-CF4-B757-A5-D06.jpg]
[Image: 3-EC12-C75-061-C-415-A-8-D5-D-BE9-A801-DA8-CE.jpg]
[Image: 0193485-A-BD73-4-E27-92-CF-1-E23-C7-E9-C884.jpg]
[Image: 31-ACDC86-5-D4-F-4040-BE71-473778-BAD87-F.jpg]
[Image: A9-C81086-011-E-48-F2-B0-EC-4-B8-D338-C9-BCF.jpg]
Reply
#6
Thumbs Down 
£10 + for an 0-ring takes the piss-taking to a whole new level.
That part should be 20p.
Reply
#7
I had to replace the same O ring last year. As you say, taking the firkin piss.
Reply
#8
It was the best part of £14 quid once the postage was factored in, a mate of mine asked if I measured the new one before fitting it as could get one cheaper from an oring supplier he uses but I will probably never need another one. When I think of it as the cost of fixing the leak rather than the cost of the oring its not so bad!
Reply
#9
The official size is 2.1 x 34.7mm;

https://www.cmsnl.com/products/o-ring-d2...4GC1u3TVPZ

A quick search found these -if it were me i`d try 2 x 34mm for £1.25.
For nearly the 15 quid you paid Graham you could of bought 250. That would see you right for a few years of Big ownership..!;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nitrile-34mm-...SwIo1c5WWy
Reply
#10
Cheers Hann if thats what I will do if I need one again. ?
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)