Lots to be doing.
Not sure I have ever recommended a split link over a rivet link? I always use a rivet link as not so long ago, I had the chain split on the CCM. That had a split link. The chain guide is pretty deep on those and I reckon some shuffling back and forth just a couple of miles previous was responsible for dislodging the spring clip. Luckily it caused no damage to the cases. I have a really good rivet tool which I bought years back from B & C express who are in the next village. The key is to not over peen them as most people do and also make sure you have plenty of grease around the o rings and the pin. should be OK then.

As for shock lengths, I googled " bike shock lengths" there are various charts like this one which may be of some help?

My bad Nug Confusedhift: , thought you were in Bobs split link camp. I will add I've no direct usage experience of them, any time i bought a bike with one i just groaned as twas another job to be doing as the consensus was they were as you say Nug, a possible failure candidate.
You do certainly have a point Bob regarding the over tightened side plate being a huge issue. Ive seen bikes with workshop fitted rivet links that are still crooked on the lower chain run after having gone past the tight radius of the front sprocket. Ive done it myself sure, but I tend to buy two links just in case Banghead

Not a whole heap done the last couple days, still working on mates bikes but did square away a few bits.
There was no headlight, brake lights or indys working and now i have all them.
Headlight was switch corrosion.
Brake lights was corroded connector and over adjusted rear switch.
Indys was bad relay and a bulb.

[Image: 20190915-180227.jpg]
Had to drill the head off the lower bolt holding the rec reg as it was badly seized and i didnt want to use an impact on the battery box. Thats the blown relay.

Had a spare one, tis ropey but works! Made in a sweatshop in indonesia
[Image: 20190915-180214.jpg]
Will order a correct fitting one but for now shes lit correctly anyhow.

Voltage were middling in comparison to blues. Ground was grand as an additional rigged up one made no improvement but upon separating the corroded halfs of the rr connectors and freeing the pins and tinning the crimps she jumped up to 14.4 at 3.5k just like blue and an acceptable 13.7 with lights at idle.
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Dodged a bullet there as i was beginning to doubt the stator and wanted to keep my spare as just that.

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Megazip rocks! No import duties somehow Thumbup Bought these for blue as i want to emulate Dave Mabuse's super sweet dr800s transmission. It really highlighted an improvement I'd like to have. Question, how important is that upper chain wheel at the front sprocket? I have a slider dealio fitted, not the oem job and i wonder does it come into play much? I reckon what i have is ineffective as it is absolutely unmarked and the one on big red is a wheel and shows evidence of chain marks.bi probably have mine too high?

In other news this was being fooked out, yes mad! Plugged it in and lo it worked.
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And i said thank you I'll be having that! It rocks. Its powerful, waaay more so than my argos one. Anything inside the rack with dirt of any kind is literally fizzing before your eyes as if its been dropped in acid. I dropped in an old ally carpet knife that was jammed krudded up with mortar, plaster and whatever else. Came out like new and the blade slipped out easy. Winner. Big enough to swallow a whole carb at a time easily.
re Megazip.... Japan and the EU have a no duties customs arrangement, which is why you pay nothing
Of course, us poor sods in the UK will lose that when fukkwitBoris takes us out of the EU.
Sounds like your bike has been parked up a long time for it to have so much electrical corrosion
Ahhh I see. Pretty sure when i ordered that loom off Eastern Beaver for the dr i was hit with customs.... anyway, gift horse and all that. As to Boris, these days that whole arena is reduced to lies and spin, tis reality tv entertainment. Shame about the consequences.
Yeah shes deffo stood for a time. My feeling is post exportation from Switzerland she sat as there's clear signs of her having been well minded till then. For a 30 yo bike she has all her fasteners and everything looks totally standard and un mullered.

Question please, I'm not by the bike but need to know the header od at the link pipe join and i can't remember Banghead
Have a busa rhs can and a gsxr k1 can on the way and want to get started on havingbthe link made.
...............but need to know the header od at the link pipe..............

42.7mm Thumbup

Busa can will be rather long I think?
Tis bigger alright Nug. My hope is a shorter link (within reason given restrictions of fairing) it wont look too bad. I have a as new gsxr1000 k1 20 quid bargain on its way too. The busa can was 30 odd. Resi has fitted the busa can also but iirc he may have shortened them? He also has some flanges.
Biggest problem i see now is 42.7mm is a feckin odd size to buy stock for!
dave#22 Wrote:...............but need to know the header od at the link pipe..............

42.7mm Thumbup


Educate me Dave/anyone else...no easy task i hear you say lol :lolno:
So its 42.7mm od. What id pipe do i want that will give a gas tight fit that goes over it? My guess is 42.8mm with two slits in it and an exhaust clamp on it yeah??
On my DRnotsoBIG 750 I have a std pipe with a used stainless Laser ProDuro silencer...(quite loud), which came with a stainless link pipe that fitted the DR pipe perfectly....unfortunately the link pipe was too long and pushed the silencer too far back, which looked unsightly, so I decided where I wanted the silencer and cut 'n shut the link pipe to suit.
I would assume that the ID of the link pipe would be around 43mm which is a non standard tube size. The ProDuro link must be specially made to fit the DR pipe.
I've got two used ones here, one at 42mm ID, the other at 43mm ID, the std link pipe is around 15" long and 69mm OD, but mine is now about 10", giving an o.a.length from end to end of 28 1/2".
I seem to remember using a modified ProDuro link pipe on my DR750 SR41 to connect an aluminium Devil silencer to a stainless front pipe...with a bit of modification of course.

Off to Yorkshire for the Capo do tomorrow.
Can you actually get 42.8mm I.D. ? Not sure that you can. It may be that you will have to go slightly undersize and expand the end to slip over. Or, you could go slightly over size and make a thin sleeve to make up the space. I had to do this on the CCM. The Banditmania flange spigot was a fair bit oversize for the CCM header. All fine with some assembly past on it and a proper Mikalor clamp.

If you do want to shorten the Busa rocket launcher, I can send you some pics of how I did the CCM GSXR can. I assume they are the same construction as they look the same?

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