Hi, as title, new to forum and hope to avoid any new member indicscretion but I'm stumped. Bought a 1995 DR650, uk model as a non runner (there's my first mistake). It was cheap and thought it'd be a nice little winter tinkering project...now it's basically completed but still can't get a spark. On investigation it looks like the issue was the bolts securing the stator let go and it ate itself. I'm running out of ideas TBH. I've fitted a new stator and pick up coil, which was checked as correct by a local stator specialist, new coils and leads, and I changed the cdi from a running bike, also new battery. Couple of Q's.
Am I correct in that the the clutch and side stand cut outs prevent the starter working and not producing a spark (both have in any case been bypassed.
I have only five wires on the ignition, red/orange/brown/grey/black with yellow tracer, all the diagrams I can find show a six wire ignition. The black with yellow goes back to the cdi, but I can't see how this connects/relates to the ignition? Further confusion shows the ignition switch to not be the correct one! Possibly off an early suzuki bandit?! I've worked out that if it's hotwired the red and orange go together as do the brown and grey. This completes the lighting circuit, ignition on and it turns over nicely. Just the black with orange is a mystery? Don't know if it's considered sacrilege on here but I've rather chopped the old girl up cosmetically. So basically any help is be very grateful for. Regards, John.
When I get the hang of it I'll add a photo!
Posts: 4,429
Threads: 284
%%TYL_NUMTHANKEDLIKED%%
Joined: Jan 2010
I`m sure the 650 only had a 4 wire ignition switch. Red, orange, brown, grey.
Check the wiring diagram carefully. Looks like you need a new switch.
Plenty here http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=d...acat=10063
The side stand switch will cut the engine if you put it in gear while the stand is down.
Have you also checked the kill switch?
Thanks for your response. Kill switch seems to operate correctly in that it will allow the starter to kick over or not as selected. I'll bypass this anyway to check. The fifth wire, black with yellow trace goes back to the CDI unit which is what I'm stumped about. I'm back out in the shed this afternoon to have another look and head scratch.
back out for another look, stripped the loom back and discovered what looks like a poorly insulated joint on the earth wires from the coils, that had a poor repair and it seems to have shorted out on an adjacent live... bit of a mess but that's sorted now and also found what must be a part of the old ignition, only the back plate that all the wires are soldered to, this shows a six wire set up, the four as described and in addition the black with white and a black with yellow, it corresponds with what I've got spare in the loom. Printed off a wiring diagram from zenseeker and this shows the black with yellow as part of the kill switch set up. More questions than answers but theres always tomorrow. Also can't upload photos, that'll be something else to work out.
Actually, yes, it seems I can at least do that.
So I've stripped back and physically checked the loom, no other obvious issues, it just leaves me with two wires I need to sort out. the first is the black with yellow trace, this should be fine if I can source the right ignition, four wires it is defintely not, there's this B/Y wire and also a black with white earth wire), so deffo six! unless the main four go through the connector and the other two are connected individually. Unless anyone can suggest differently, on the wiring diagram it goes from the CDI and splits to the engine stop switch and the P/LOCK/OFF side of the ignition and shows it switching with a Black/white earth on both. So, if I just earth this at the ignition end then that should suffice, just to check for spark and get it going?
The only other mystery is the Blue with black that has been cut near to the CDI, this shows as a neutral indicator light, I can't see how that would affect anything but I'll rewire that, so basically its just sorting out the ignition.
And weirdly it won't let me post any more images, had a search through the FAQ's and couldn't find anything. Just says the image is invalid?
Posts: 4,429
Threads: 284
%%TYL_NUMTHANKEDLIKED%%
Joined: Jan 2010
If the neutral wire is not connected you will get no spark
Where in Essex?
Right, the blue with black is the tacho feed from the cdi so that's fine, it only leaves the black with yellow to sort and I think that's a question around the ignition. Wiring diagram shows six, old part of ignition shows six and having just searched on eBay it seems the later 1996 ignition might be correct going by photos. Chance of it being a bit of a changeover bike being late 1995? And hello, I'm near stansted.
This saga continues at pace. Returned from my local auto electrician and he reckoned everything tests correctly, no shorts or open circuits on anything, reckoned it could only be the CDI. Ordered a replacement CDI from ze german, that's fitted and outputs over 70 volts AC which I've been told that's correct by the guys that bench tested the stator, (the old one was outputting under 30, which apparently is not). But still no spark. Questions:
The safety cut outs (which have all been bypassed) clutch, neutral and side stand switch, should stop the starter activating, not prevent a spark? Is that correct? It makes sense to me if that is the case.
Spark plug caps show no continuity, is this correct? In any case I've removed the cap and lead and tested output direct from coils which is zero. But I did get a bit excited when I tested the caps, then back to miserable when I tested the coils...
Cheers, John.
|
