Giving the 750 some TLC
Having sold the trusty 800, the 750 now has to fill its place as everyday hack & touring steed. I have had the 750 just over 2 years & in that time all I have done is the normal servicing required. It has suffered being kept outside most of the time & as we all know, most things don't like being left idle. I took it off the road back in August to save money on insurance etc & this has had a negative effect.
So, a list of jobs to do then :tdown:
First off, the clutch had started slipping last time I rode it. Cable was fine & recently replaced so I had the cover off & checked out the clutch plates etc. All seemed fine so basically cleaned up the plates & glaze busted them. The clutch felt very light so I felt it would be a good idea to fit new springs.

The decompressor cable was knackered & not releasing so I fitted a new one.

Next was the carbs. Had them off & gave them a good clean out (they where actually very clean to start with). Cleaned out the tiny choke jet with some wire as it appeared a little constricted by some corrosion or fuel residue/gunk. Diaphragms where A1. The only issue I had was the idle mixture screw. Nothing would budge it ! I tried every (non destructive) technique I know but to no avail. This called for plan B. Assuming the seized screw was close to the standard factory setting then it would feasable to bring the blanked off screw on the right hand side into play. This proved to be a good move as upon removal of the brass plug it was great to find a fully functioning screw beneath Thumbup Now thanks to Lars, I have a nice T bar idle mixture screw to fit which is still accessable even near the hot header pipe. The factory set this screw at 2 1/2 turns out so it is basically balanced with the left carb. This means there is no problem with adjusting the mixture on the right Thumbup
nug Wrote:Now thanks to Lars, I have a nice T bar idle mixture screw

You're welcome Smile

The other thing I did prior to removal of the carbs was to remove the old stainless predator exhaust system. I found a good GSXR 1000 can on eblag which was going to replace it. Along with this I also got a nice stainless header from Lars Wink
First obstacle to get over was the stud which snapped in the head Sad Bloody thing only left around 4mm poking out so I tried to weld a nut on but it just wouldn't hold so had to resort to drilling & tapping. Because of this I decided to replace the bolts with studs so that hopefully I will not have this problem again.
So, in with the new header & then offer up the new can. The mismatch between the 2 parts meant a link pipe would have to be made. The easiest option available to me was to cut the front section from a battered Marving can that I had lying around. I cut the front section off & offered it in place but it need some trimming of the header pipe to get it where I wanted it. I also had to cut the mount of & move it so that I could get the new can far enough out from the wheel.


I got the can offered up then trimmed the link pipe to length & welded the bracket fully.


Next job was to make a 4 bolt flange to mate the parts together. This was a pain as it required a 60mm hole to be cut in 5mm plate. Slow & steady with the hole saw Thumbup
So, having cut the flange I then welded it on to the link pipe.


This finished article.....not exactly a work of art but will suffice until I can get a stainless link pipe fabbed.

Next job was to remove the rear mudguard & rack etc. Yes the bolts where a F''Ker to get undone but care & patience got them all out with undue damage.
The reason for the removal of these items was to fit I a nice LED tail light & tidy up the rear end. The standard light is rather ugly & looks a bit of an afterthought. I am not keen on the Acerbis light mod as many do. I had those lights on bikes back in the 80's & they where shite then so no reason to believe they have improved. They are expensive as well. I sourced a nice LED stop tail unit for under £20. The light also comes with a 5 year warranty & is also "potted" which will keep the vibes & weather from destroying it Thumbup

Potted Thumbup


The lens clips into a very sturdy plastic surround. I made a foam gasket to help it sit nicely in the tool box aperture.


Having spent ages polishing the grubby yellowed mudguard I now had to fit the light surround. The easiest way was to fab a couple of little brackets which I added heatshrink to for grip & protection of the mudguard.


I then attached the light surround to the mudguard with M6 Bolts & nuts & clipped the lens in place...worked a treat Thumbup


Looks good.... what do you guys reckon ?


Next was to fit a LED number plate light discretely under the edge of the Mudguard lip. This involved drilling the original bracket to suit.
I also need to mod this bracket for new indicators which need relocating thanks to the new can.

How does it SOUND, Nug?

Did you really do all the nice fabrication on the pipe and NOT start up the bike??? :o

I'll be interested to see what you come up with for jetting this thing.

I like the taillight...well done.
Started it as soon as the link pipe was fabbed & was happy with the nice deep note Thumbup It may a different matter when I am doing hundreds of miles a day though.....we shall see. I like the factory look of it. I very nearly used the standard rear light for my conversion which would of ended up similar to yours Ladder. I am pleased with the result though & the LED takes a bit of load from the system which is good.

Will report back on the jetting. the mains are 120 with the needle on the 4th notch at the moment. I have the standard filter with the snorkel removed and the aperture opened up to the size of the element. This makes a big difference to the breathing so hopefully the jetting will be somewhere near.

I swapped the float bowls for SR43 type so that I can change the main jets easily Thumbup
Looking good mate. Thumbup
Hope it stands up to the Somme mud that we will be ploughing through in a few weeks time Wink Wink
Nice that back light ... where did you find it?
Nug, the tail light looks good, always nice to see a different approach.

I have put a GSXR can on my SR42B, too. It sounds very good but I have had no chance to test its performance.
Any of you guys planning GSXR end can mod might be interested in a link pipe of GSXR. I have one left over. It is made of titanium I think, so it will be difficult to weld. One can just cut the end of it and use it as an adaptor for slip on type connection.
Sorry for the hijack.
nug Wrote:I sourced a nice LED stop tail unit for under £20. The light also comes with a 5 year warranty & is also "potted" which will keep the vibes & weather from destroying it
very professional looking! Thumbup

marcopiega Wrote:Nice that back light ... where did you find it?

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