Dr Big

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Wanted a good spare front wheel a while now and bought what looked like a clean one from France for 60 blips.

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Whipped off the disc, wurths rost off rocks and the old tourance.

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Removed the old weight and it balanced up with 5g. No radial run out and only 2 to 3mm lateral run out.

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Was hoping to see this, the oem weird ass ntn bearingSmile
My original hub was cabbaged by a PO at some point running two (8mm iirc) bearings, the outside one picked up and spun. I replaced it with another hub and between the jigs n reels the bend on the hagon spokes built for the original didnt perfectly match the new when rebuilt. Nett effect is the slightest bend where the spokes enter the nipple. There was a subtle difference in both hubs spoke mounts despite both being off a 4 bolt disc mount 750! Suzuki parts bin eh.
Wheel builder declared it structurally sound and its been fine for the couple thousand k since the rebuild but I'd sooner keep it as a spare.

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Bent over for the ntn and i see they are now hologramming the koyo packaging prob in a hope to fend off the Chineseium clones.

Plan was Central wheel, costs are as follows..

"We cannot blast & powder coat any rim that has flaking Chrome. Your best bet is to take
the rim to a Plating company & ask them to strip it & then send it to us.

Or we can offer a new rim as detailed below;

Unplated Bright steel rim - £59.00 each + Powder coating - £25.00

We can supply the following Spoke & nipple sets;

Polished (Single gauge) Stainless steel spokes complete with Nickel plated brass nipples
- £74.55 per wheel set

To Blast & Powder coat your Hub (Satin Black) - £40.00 each (Please remove bearings before sending)

To rebuild your Wheels - £60.00 each

Carriage - £40.00 - (Northern Ireland)

Lead time for Order - 4/5 Weeks"

Thats 300 squid incl shipping. So I'm considering building a jig to measure disc mounting surface to rim offset and rebuilding it with replica ss spokes from the above. I'll have the rim coated and spray up the hub.

Le Bob, do I remember you saying you build em? Any and sll tips welcomeSmile
I`ve rebuilt nearly all my wheels with s/steel spokes and had the rims and hubs powder coated gloss black.
Never bothered with measuring offset etc and just made sure that the runout was within 2mm or so and all the spokes were tensioned correctly and equally.
I took my time and nipped the spokes up just a bit at a time which was laborious but after I thought I was there or thereabouts I checked the runout and it was almost spot on and only took a bit more tensioning of a few spokes to get it right.
I`ve done five pairs of wheels and they are all still running true after tens of thousands of miles and the handling is spot on so I must be doing something right.
I talked to Central Wheels last year and it appears they used to rebuild all the wheels for Hagon, though not any more as they fell out. Never liked Hagons anyway
Definitely not cheap having wheels rebuilt, and much better to do it yourself. Besides, you learn a new skill and you can`t put a price on knowledge.
I would end up with a wheel shaped like an egg if I did it. Good on you for doing it yourself Thumbup
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Yo, Mr Slime

If you didn't ignore my texts you'd have found out that I've researched and found a well respected wheel builder (Re: bike shops here in Cork) up north.

I'll be going up shortly to see if he can respoke my wheels as my spokes are rusty. Original rims seem grand but I'll get his opinion if they are still serviceable or, replace the rims. BTW, your 'old wives tale' of rubbing the rusty spokes with aluminium foil was a 'wind up' you bugger - rust reappeared and I broke a finger nail too!

If one wishes to avail of my kind offer it'll cost you a decent bottle of beer for my trouble..... Later dude....

BTW, I'd not use Central Wheels again as they made a mess off replicating the original spokes for my XTZ1200 despite being supplied with new original Yamaha spokes. Had to return them as the wheel builder said the bend angles were all wrong and not threaded to correct length therefore not safe to lace up.....
They were all sleepy after a Sunday dinner so i slipped away unnoticed :lolno:
I will state at this point that I have not done as usual and researched the topic exhaustively but am kinda rolling with it. See what i did thereSmile

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Only had to cut one, thank you rost off.

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18 a side and all appear identical yes Bob? There were a few (at the bottom rhs) who's bends were not as acute but i think that's either production error or have suffered a bend in use. Some did show a slight bend.

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The cause of all this i suppose. These are a couple hagon spares leftover and are whats in my current rebuilt wheel.
Bend aint quite there eh?

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Which causes the slight bend as the spoke goes into the nipple.

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Time to get crackin on with the hub. Unsure if i should blast, paint or coat. Might investigate a homebrew blasting and two pack paint it...

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Rim will be sent for blasting and coating, satin black. Nug, just thinking out loud but would the heat endures during powder coating anneal the alloy and soften it?

Bob, based on what you and Mabuse are saying i'll be sending an original spoke and a hagon one with a note saying this aint enough :lolno:

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Incase some other blundering eejit like meself is thinking of undertaking this the above might help :wave:

Dave cheers for the offer buddy but for sixty quid I'm gona give this a shot as if i get it right I'll have learnt a new skill and saved a few quidz.
I used Hagon s/steel spokes and found that the bend wasn`t quite as in the OE spokes and should have been about 5 degrees more obtuse.
However, I used them anyway and found that it all seemed to work OK. Maybe the tension pulled them all into the correct shape.
Whatever, they are still fine after many years and miles.
Just take your time and when you are done tap each spoke in turn and you`ll tell by the ring if it`s tensioned right.
Reminds me of the wheel tappers and shunters club Bob.
Hi Colum, I see you are concerned about the angle of the spoke to the nipple on your original wheel?...It looks to me that it's a steel rim?...if so, not standard and the reason that there is a bend at the end of the spoke, is that the piercing (punched hole) of the rim is not inline with the hole in the hub.
The bend in the replacement spokes can be increased to match the original easily, as it's only a shallow bend.
Good luck.
Reminds me of the wheel tappers and shunters club Bob.

Showing your age there mate Wink
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